Alain's Bistro

Don’t be put off by the uncomely location in a mini-mall near the Tappan Zee Bridge. As you pass through the door of Alain’s French Bistro you are transported to a snug corner of what could be Paris or Lyon.

In the front is a small café-like space with mustard-colored walls, a handful of tables, and — just ignore it — an enchanting partial view of the parking lot. This is a pleasant place for a simple lunch. Inside is a larger room with dark wood floors, soft lighting and French prints on the walls. Tables are generously spaced.

Alain Eigenmann, the chef and owner, is a kinetic and caring host. Under his roof, the customer is invariably right. And that’s the staff’s directive, too. The bistro draws a varied crowd, young and older, casual and dressy.

Eigenmann is a classicist at the stove, extolling the virtues of time-honored regional cooking. You will find on his menu an outstanding steak tartare, subtle duck liver pâté, rosemary-skewered shrimps and scallops with asparagus and grilled polenta, monkfish Provençale, duck a l’orange and a fine bouillabaisse. In autumn a wide range of game is featured. Whatever you taste in desserts, don’t miss the trio of multi-flavored crème brulées. The wine list makes stopovers in many leading regions of France and is well matched with the food. Whites begin at $32; reds are higher.   - Bryan Miller