Hudson at Haymount House

As you approach this turn-of-the-century Southern-style colonial manse, you might think you have reached Scarlett O’Hara’s Tara — and in a sense you have, as this dignified white-columned residence played a significant role in the film “Gone with the Wind.” The current owner hopes it will fare better than the movie version, this time as a luxury restaurant.

You enter a giant ballroom that affords sweeping views of the Hudson River. The interior is all marble and wood and romance, with a luxurious dining room that seats 70. In clement weather, guests can dine on a splendid open-air patio. The chef, Scott Riesenberger, wears many chevrons on his jacket, having worked with such luminaries as David Bouley, Alain Ducasse and two other French legends, Marc Meneau and Marc Veyrat. Riesenberger calls his food “farm to table,” but so does everybody else in his league. In this case, however, he follows through.

Several examples of his handiwork from the ever-changing menu: big eye tuna tartare with smoked almonds, green apple and petite dill; wild branzino with sweet peas, horseradish, parsnips and vanilla; maple-glazed Berkshire pork belly with sunchokes, radish, and celery; and Hudson Valley duck breast along with baby fennel, pistachios, and carrot jus. -Bryan Miller