Moderne Barn

Another winning goal by the smooth skating Livanos family, this stylishly converted barn follows success stories like Manhattan’s Abboccato, Oceana and Molyvos, and White Plains’ City Limits Diner. The cavernous, color-splashed dining room with a towering ceiling is afforded some sense of intimacy by partitioning the space with farm tables, flowers, booths and banquettes. Surprisingly, much of the ambient sound floats up to the rafters.

The oxymoronic menu -- described as “urban country chic” -- opens the door to just about anything the chef dreams up. All the same, the consistent quality of the food elevates this to a destination restaurant. Some of the dishes are sautéed tiger shrimp in garlic sherry and chili broth, marinated lamb kebobs with feta cheese and chimichurri vinaigrette, and breast of Long Island duck with bok choy, black barley, and blood orange jus. The wine list is copious and, for the most part, fairly priced. Service is first-rate.  -Bryan Miller