Morgans Fish House
22 Elm Place Rye, NY 914-921-8190
Responding to a challenging economy as well as the trend toward casual dining, five-year-old Morgans Fish House has made an abrupt turn midstream, shedding the jacket-and-tie look for pullovers and khakis. The dining rooms and bar now project a somewhat upscale New England fish house. There is exposed brick with white wainscoting, wood floors, and slat blinds that allow in more light. On one side of the main dining room is a floor to ceiling glass-enclosed wine display. Morgans is owned by the Pearl Restaurant Group, which also has the nearby Rye Grill & Bar and Ruby’s Oyster Bar & Bistro.
As before, the menu is copious. It is advertised as lower priced than before, but as the menu reveals, it’s not by much (swordfish is $29 and halibut $34). A horseradish-crusted salmon is $27. Appetizers present some relative deals: both tuna tartare with avocado and wonton chips, and sautéed crab cakes at with cole slaw are $15. The wine list carries a wide selection of big-ticket pinot noirs and Burgundies (ranging from $65 to $275 a bottle). At Sunday brunch, all wines are half price until 3 p.m. -Bryan MillerHours: Mon: noon-9 p.m.; Tu-Th: noon-10 p.m.; Fri: noon-11 p.m.; Sat: 5-11 p.m.; Sun: 11:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m. (brunch) and 3:30-9 p.m. (dinner) Reservations: Accepted Credit cards: Accepted