Restaurant X

This is another gem in Peter Kelly’s quarry of Hudson Valley dining spots (he also owns Xaviars at Piermont, X20 Xaviars and Freelance Café & Wine Bar). The sleek, airy design and tall windows allow sweeping views of woodlands and a large free-form pond. If you are tired of megaphone dining rooms, this is a good place for civilized conversation as the tables are generously spaced and the design mitigates noise. Adjoining the dining room is the casual Bully Boy Bar with overstuffed chairs facing a fireplace.

Chef Kelly likes to look at familiar dishes, change the shirts and ties in colorful ways, and present something that is new but respectful of the original. Braised short ribs get a jolt from a glaze of star anise; shrimp receive a curious yet pleasing treatment with a glaze of Campari and grapefruit. You get the idea. Servers are poised and pleasant. The wine list carries some delightful little-known selections, all at fair prices.  -Bryan Miller