The Cookery

Chef and co-owner David DiBari calls his food Italian family cooking, which is understandable if your mom served up dishes like barbecued octopus with grilled watermelon. You will find many postmodern surprises on the menu, offset with homey offerings — and almost all are delicious. DiBari, who earned his culinary stripes at places like Mario Batali’s Babbo and David Bouley’s Danube, took Dobbs Ferry by storm with this handsome, brick-walled establishment framed by large pane windows facing the street. Other specialties: grilled branzino stuffed with fennel, pork osso buco with polenta and apple mustard, cauliflower ravioli with lemon brown butter, and nicely charred chicken cooked under a brick. Prices are reasonable considering the quality. Reservations are accepted for parties of five or more, which can be exasperating on weekends. The wine list is modest but is matched well with the food; many are available by the glass.  -Bryan Miller