Zephs'

A charming turn-of-the-century brick building, once a charcoal factory, clings to a steep hill and affords an unromantic view of the once-thriving Peekskill harbor. This building now houses Zephs’, a homey yet refined restaurant for locals as well as destination diners. Chef Vicky Seth and her brother, Michael, opened the space in 1990, and today, the cooking is at once traditional, spontaneous, playful and precise.

The restaurant is located on a largely deserted block, and in the summer, a riotous flower garden announces its welcome. But on a glum February night, you have to look for the glass-fronted kitchen facing the road. Once inside, the dining room is subdued and attractive, in shades of blond and muted green, with soft track lighting and moody, piped-in classical guitar.

Zephs’ duck confit is unsurpassed. Other menu highlights are Moroccan-style lamb, a Portuguese stew of braised pork with clams, and stew. The wine list is modest in scope and price.  -Bryan Miller